September 2, 2010 |
| Hurricane Monitoring |
As most of you know; those of us who live, and travel, on boats are driven by weather (literally and figuratively). We are currently tucked up in the Rio Dulce which is basically a "hurricane proof" location. That said; we monitor weather on a daily basis. Our longtime connection to the Outer Banks has us monitoring the current storm cycle closely. In doing so; I thought some might have interest in a particulary good website. Stormpulse is easy to use and very graphic. As always, we hope these storms all veer eastward and spare the US east coast.
Click Here to see Stormpulse (click on any storm to see current stats)
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August 29, 2010 |
| We have a new Email Address |
We have changed our primary email address to: svhomewardbound@gmail.com
The old hotmail account will automatically forward emails, (sent to that address), to our new GMAIL account for thirty (30) days. After that we will no longer accept email from the old Hotmail account, only the new GMAIL account.
Unfortunately; Hotmail is difficult to deal with when attempting to close out an account. There are numerous occassions wherein Hotmail accounts are "hacked" and sending out bogus emails without the account holders knowledge and/or permission. We have received many. Add to this the shear volume of Junkmail, commercial pop ups and unsolicited garbage and the decision is easy.
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August 25, 2010 |
| Water and Heat (a further look into the cruising lifestyle).. |
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Another aspect of cruising;WATER! Something that is mostly taken for granted back home. Since we entered Latin American countries, back in early January, we’ve relied on purchased purified water for all our needs. This entails the purchase (and transport) of the common blue plastic five gallon containers which are common in this part of the world. Dependent on where we’ve been that can mean anything from carrying by hand, loading the dink or using a friend’s truck (if we have access). While in Roatan we would usually take the dink across the bight to Jeannie’s grocery and buy 8 – 20 containers at a time (dependant on how low the tanks are). Then load them in the dink, motor back to HB, haul them up on deck and pour (individually) into our two seventy five gallon tanks. Then return the jugs for recycling and refill by the water companies. Needless to say it takes a bit of effort but, alas, it comes with the territory. We’ve managed to avoid intestinal problems by using this method. By the way….we “did” have a water maker but were never able to get it working due to being old and without available replacement parts. A new water maker is something we now feel “required” for cruising in Central and South America. It’s on the list of things of things to do for the future.
Anyway….now that we are in the tropical jungle environment of Guatemala, in the rainy season, we have begun to collect rain water. Here, in the tropics, temperatures are fairly uniform year round and seasonal changes are not nearly as pronounced as farther north or south of the equator. Instead of temperature, precipitation defines the seasons, and there are only two of them: the dry season, which locals often call summer, and the rainy season, which is often called winter. The rainy season begins around mid-May and lasts until October or November, interrupted by a short dry period of about two weeks in late July or early August. "Rainy season" does not mean, however, that it rains all day long. On a typical day, there is sunshine in the morning before the clouds begin to appear in the afternoon and it rains for an hour or two. The rain is often followed by a few more hours of sunshine and during the night more rain is likely. There is little to no airborne pollution here so the rainwater is just about as pure as the filtered purified water. You can see (in the pictures) that it is a simple system utilizing the sun awning. Last night we had only a light rain and collected ten gallons. In a good storm we can probably fill the tanks in a couple of hours. No more hauling water jugs!!!! It does happen occasionally that it rains all day long, but that is actually quite rare. On the other hand, it also happens that it does not rain at all for two or three days. The average rainfall for August is around ten inches.
It is, indeed, hot. Today the air is reading 101 degrees with little, or no, breeze (not typical as there is frequently a nice breeze). The decks are reading 118 degrees as they bake in the sun. We’ve rigged sun shades to help keep the interior living spaces tolerable during the day. As mentioned previously we have air conditioning which we use from 5pm throughout the night and into early morning (6am). When it’s this hot we rig the A/C and go for a swim or head out to a “happy hour” somewhere nearby. Upon return it is “delightful” below! Cool, dry and comfortable …then its dinner and a movie or, simply sit back a read a good book.
One last note. In the past I’ve rarely spent much time in a swimming pool. Here, now, I take a dip about every thirty minutes. The smallest little job results in perfuse sweat. So; I work a little and then walk over to the pool, rinse off, and plunge into the cool refreshing crystal clear water. It would not be uncommon to look over and see Pat and me in the pool sipping a cold beverage; perhaps even a Pina Colada.
Yep…… I’ve developed a fancy for little umbrellas in “girly drinks” poolside!
Pics Here
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August 24, 2010 |
| Strange Foods |
To look at; this local fruit doesn't appear too appetizing (or least I don't think so anyway). This is a "lychee". There are many varieties around the world and this local one is called a Rambutan. Never having heard of, or eaten, a lychee we did some research and determined there are many uses. Cocktails, salads, cooked, raw etc. The taste, when eaten raw, is sweet with a hint of coconut. Upon removing the spiny red covering you're left with a white core around the pit. With the pit removed you're left with the edible part of the lychee. Pat made a Lychee Cucumber Salad last night and it was actually quite good. Served with grilled "chuleta de cerdo" (pork chops) and a glass of red wine made for a delightful meal.
Here's the recipe. Bon Appetit:
Cucumber Lychee Salad
Ingredients
- 1 English cucumber
- 1 cup lychees, peeled, pitted and halved
- 3 stems cilantro, finely chopped and leaves picked (reserved for garnish)
- 2 red Thai chilies, pith and seeds removed and finely diced
- zest and juice of 2 limes
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 tablespoon seasoned rice wine vinegar
- Salt
Directions
- Cut cucumber in half length-wise, deseed with a spoon, quarter and dice ¼ inch thick.
- In a bowl, mix cucumber, lychees, cilantro stems and chili.
- Add lime zest, juice, sugar, salt and vinegar, toss.
- Before serving, garnish with cilantro leaves.
Pics
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August 16, 2010 |
| A peek at our temporary "Home Site" |
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Our "Front Gate"
Bienvenidos!
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We are slipped at Bruno's Marina and Resturante for, at least, the next six weeks (thru September). Bruno's has turned out to be a pleasant surprise. Prior to our arrival we were "warned" that the noise (from the bridge adjacent to Bruno's) and boat traffic, with its resultant wake, would be problematic. Turns out it's no problem at all. The other complaint is about the heat and lack of wind. Well it is hot everywhere; but there has been a pretty steady breeze each day which pours down the forward wind scoop keeping it quite tolerable. We've only used the air conditioner twice thusfar. We take many short dips in the pool during the day (it's literally a thirty second walk). Other benefits include easy access (5 min walk) to town where most anything can be purchased for our daily needs (fish, vegetables, fruit etc.). The resturant has great food and is one of many gathering places for cruisers. It is also a central location for others to access town via the dock here. So, all in all, we're loving it here.
As is the case everywhere the marinas look something like "gypsy camps". There are sunshades, tarps etc. covering most boats to protect from the intense sunlight. That, along with multiple fans, keep it tolerable. When it gets to be too much you simply turn on the A/C. You might wonder why not just use A/C all the time? Electricity here is costly at 35-45 cents per kilowatt hour. That compared to you're 9-12 cents or so.
Our plans remain flexible! We "think" we're staying here until sometime in October, BUT, one never knows! When we hear the "sirens song" beckoning us elsewhere we simply load up and set sail.
Stay cool.....
Couple of Pics Here
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August 12, 2010 |
| Macaw Mountain Bird Park |
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Resident Tucan.
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Just outside Copan lies the Macaw Mountain Bird Park and Nature Reserve. The owners of this park are old friends of Larry’s from Roatan. Lloyd, and his wife Tanya, own the park and a great restaurant (Twisted Tanyas) in town. We spent a beautiful sunny morning exploring this exquisite park with its tropical foliage and quiet pathways. The setting is serene and lush. There are both enclosed areas for some birds as well as open areas for others. The park also serves as a rescue facility for distressed birds. These are typically those whose owners have neglected or otherwise failed to properly care for these beautiful animals. We capped off the morning at the onsite restaurant. Smoked salmon, four cheeses, French bread and crisp white wine. How sweet it is!
From: Audubon Magazine (May 2005)
Located in western Honduras, a five-minute drive from the town of Copán Ruinas, is the award-winning Macaw Mountain Bird Park & Nature Reserve. Set in one of the area’s last old-growth forests, the reserve is replete with mahogany, gumbo limbo, chico zapote, Spanish cedar and fig trees. Many of the birds here were rescued by American conservationist Mandy Wagner. She began rescuing parrots and toucans out of devotion to these intelligent, social creatures, which she housed at her home on the Honduran bay island of Roatán. By the 1990s, her collection had grown to include more than 15 bird species. Lloyd Davidson, a biologist and long-time Roatán resident, inherited the birds in 1994. By 2000, the
collection had grown to more than 100 birds comprising more than 20 species, and Davidson purchased a beautiful tract of land for them. After several years of detailed designing and building, he and his business partner, Pat Merritt, moved the birds by charter airplane in July 2003 and opened Macaw Mountain several months later. Many of the birds have been donated or rescued and they are housed, fed and cared for here. Seeing so many varieties of these tropical birds in one place is a rare and unforgettable experience.
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August 11, 2010 |
| Mayan Ruins at Copan |
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Ball Field
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The town of Copan Ruinas was established around one hundred fifty years ago to support the archeological excavation of one of the more significant Mayan ruin sites (Copan). This area represents the Mayan Classic period from the 5th through the 9th centuries AD. Once known as the “Athens of the New World” these ruins remain a significant location for Central American archeology.
We hired Mike as a local guide to take Angie, Pat and me through the park. One is awed by the sheer effort it took to quarry, chisel, form and carve these massive stone structures. The original population was estimated at around three thousand. It continued to grow to about twenty thousand citizens which led to its ultimate demise. The mountain environment could not sustain the burgeoning population as they depleted the resources (primarily timber used for fires). In the end it’s said they had to travel three days to harvest timber. That in the midst of what was before, and is today again, an endless sea of towering trees.
As you tour the various temples, the ball field and surrounding structures the tale of human sacrifice unfolds. One cannot imagine a “stadium” full of people cheering on the bloodletting and torture associated with these sacrifices. This, along with powerful hallucinogenics, kept their Kings in a position to have an “iron rule” over the population. That said; they were master craftsman (at least as far as stone work, clay and pottery are concerned). The hieroglyphics carved into the headstones and towering stairways are truly impressive.
There is much too much to portray here in this blog format. If you want more info check out this website for a brief overview.
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August 9, 2010 |
| Road trip to Copan |
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Mountain framed by Plaza
stone work.
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We went on a four day road trip to see the Mayan Ruins up in Copan, Honduras. We traveled six hours via bus back up into the mountains of western Honduras. Our route took us up the Pan American Highway which, as mentioned previously, really has to be experienced to be believed. It is a narrow two lane road with major truck, bus and car traffic. It winds and twist down and up the mountains with mere inches between opposing traffic. Passing in these tight quarters is a harrowing experience. Truly a white knuckle experience. Alas…we did, indeed, survive!
The town of Copan is of “pueblo” style and is very colorful. There are many tourists here with the main attraction being the Mayan Ruins from the 5th through 9th centuries AD. The tourist trade brings the mountain pueblo and western cultures together producing a delightful little town with numerous eateries and cafes scattered about the cobblestone streets. Colorful, vibrant and yet “sleepy” at the same time. One can get lost in the relaxed atmosphere found here. We took a room at the Plaza Copan Hotel which is right on the common plaza (the center of the town’s activities). Air conditioning, swimming pool and the local espresso shops make for a pleasant diversion from our normal onboard lifestyle.
The main form of local travel is the Tuc Tue (three wheeled taxi). You can get anywhere around town for a couple of Lempira ( Honduran currency (19 per US Dollar)). As you’ll see in the photos the town is comprised of narrow cobblestone streets leading up and down the mountain. Three passengers per Tuc Tue and it’s a fun ride!
There will be two post to follow (one for the ruins themselves as well as one for Macaw Mountain (bird sanctuary) both in Copan).
We spent three nights before parting company with Larry and Angie. They both headed back to Roatan via stops in Tekal and LaCeiba. They took a fast ferry from LaCeiba back to Jonesville, Roatan. We will anxiously await our next meeting later in the year (in Roatan).
Now for the finale’….We arranged for an air conditioned four hour bus ride back to the Rio Dulce. First leg was to be to Rio Hondo where we would change buses to make the final leg home. Well; we got to Rio Hondo where they dropped us off on the side of the road at what, at best, could be called a dirty, hot, crowded and noisy way station along the Pan American Highway. So here we are with buses, trucks and cars flying by in 90+ degree sun blaring horns and whipping up mini dust storms. Two hours later they (the local agent for our bus company) “arranged” for our transport on a “chicken bus”. That is a non air conditioned bus (typically an old US school bus) which is packed to the limit with people, pets, bags, groceries …you name it. We were told we would have to stand for, maybe thirty minutes, before a seat would become available. Two and a half hours later (now in the dark) we were able to sit. In total the ride home was eight hours. Needless to say Homeward Bound never looked so good. In the end, however, it makes for another wonderful entry into the log and memory pool! Only in these third world countries can you create these “opportunities” for adventure! Gotta love it!
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August 8, 2010 |
| Mini Trip to Hot Water Falls |
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Heading home in the back
of a pick up.
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Looking for a way to cool off a bit and see some more of the local landscape we took a bus ride up river. We headed several miles up along the river to a Hot Water Falls. After a short hike we arrived at a cool shady spot on one of the many creeks which wind down to the Rio. It required a bit of hike up to the head water and then a steep climb back down to the base of the falls. The sensation is a bit strange. You swim across a large pool of cool water and enter the hot water falls. Fortuneatly there has been a lot of rain so the "hot" water was probably only around ninety degrees or so. It was warm but not too much. Remember; the air here is HOT and we were looking for COOL. We quickly entered the cool waters and soaked for a bit before swimming over to the falls. Once under the falls you can hang on to a ledge and bath in the hot water before swimming back across. As is always the case in such places....there were young people there who don't have much fear or trepadation and climbed the slippery rocks to the top in order to jump off the top of the falls. Mind you; this is not a straight vertical jump. There are base rocks protruding out several feet requiring the jumper to "clear" the base. Fortunately we didn't stay long enough to witness an inevitable "slip". Guess we're just getting too old and conservative! Guess, too, I've forgotten about some of the really dumb shit I did as an adolescent! Don't worry...Pat was quick to remind me! Once sufficiently cooled down we headed up to the road and a cold beer. While waiting for the bus Angie put her thumb out to a passing pick up truck. Guess what? The guy stops and we all climb into the back of the pickup for the thirty minute ride back to town. What was I saying about adolescent behavior? Driving fifty plus mph on these narrow roads (in the back of a small pickup) is excelerating to say the least. Oh well it beat jumping off rock ledges (I think). Needless to say we got back safely. Another day into the log.
Pics Here
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August 7, 2010 |
| Grab a coffee and have a seat... |
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Fisherman poling across the Rio
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....my apologies in advance this is a long one.
Rio Dulce up to Fronteras
We left Utila around 11:00 for the twenty six hour passage to the Rio Dulce. We set a course heading west southwest in a fresh breeze and sunny skies. The trip was mostly uneventful save for a few squalls later in the day. We had a few with twenty five knot winds and eight to ten foot seas. The auto pilot did an admirable job though it did work a bit harder to keep a true course (extra rations earned for him). We passed the illumination of LaCeiba, Puerto Cortez and Puerto Barrios off to our south as we headed west along the coast. During daylight one can see the mountains of mainland Honduras from many miles at sea. At night time they disappear into the black void leaving no horizon to follow. This is made worse by overcast skies which blocked out all starlight as well. Therefore; these “glowing” cities gave us some orientation while on watch. Around 05:00 the eastern sky awakened with the faintest bit of light. Soon we had a marvelous sky with red purple hews and the silhouette of large billowing clouds (all long before the sun even broke the horizon). We made the mouth of Rio at 08:00 which was four hours ahead of our planned schedule. We crossed the bar without incident and motored to Livingston where we set anchor awaiting the Port Captain to clear us into Guatemala. By this time the sun was up and shining over the very picturesque town of Livingston. We had to wait until 11:00 before the “entourage” showed up onboard (before such time captain and crew are not allowed ashore). There were five officials. Port Captain, Customs, Immigration and two “mystery” guys (they didn’t say or do anything except smile). Once check in was complete we went ashore to sample the sights at Livingston. Yet another great little place. That said; we were on a mission. We wanted to get to Fronteras which was four hours up river and our ultimate destination. We hauled anchor and proceeded up the gorge. This is a narrow gorge with towering cliffs and jungle vegetation. Actually it was the original location for filming of the Johnny Wisemiller “Tarzan” films. We didn’t see Johnny but I sure could see the old black & white Tarzan movies in my mind’s eye! It was very cool! We arrived (mid afternoon) in Fronteras which is the focal point of this area. It is on the Rio Dulce just before it enters into Lake Izabal (very large lake) and just above the Golfete ( smaller lake). By the way…this is all fresh water. We anchored off Bruno’s Marina just at the base of the bridge. We heard some disparaging remarks about Bruno’s which have proven all to be “bunk”. We’ve rented a slip for a month and are loving it here thus far. We can walk to the center of town in five minutes. There you’ll find most anything (foodwise) in the street side market stands lining both sides of the road. The road is actually the Pan American Highway which is the major road north and south through Central America. This makes for some interesting traffic conditions. Chickens, vegetable stands, bikes, buses, cars, buses, pedestrians…all vying for a little space to move (and avoid getting run over). Something you’ve really got to see to believe! It is really inexpensive here. So much so that it’s almost cheaper to eat at any one of some fifteen to twenty local places than to cook onboard (so far ALL have been fantastic). Monday we are taking a four hour bus ride back in to the mountains of Honduras at Copan. There we’ll visit the Mayan ruins and see the local sites. We'll post our Copan trip as well as a pleasant afternoon at the "hot water falls" yesterday.
Pics Here
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2010
Hurricane Mon...
August (12)